1st Oil Change on Red Sport - Infiniti Q60 Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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1st Oil Change on Red Sport

Just finished changing the oil and filter on my Red Sport AWD @ 1,000 miles, and I wanted to pass along a few observations.

  • I used Rhino Ramps to access the underside of the car. I had to first remove the lower air deflectors (held on with four 10 mm hex bolts on each side) to enable me to drive the car up the ramp. Otherwise, the deflectors were pushing the ramps as I tried to drive-onto the ramps. Note: If I had some 2x6 boards, they may have helped raise the car enough to clear the ramps without removing the deflectors, but I had nothing available.
  • Although it mentions removing the lower shield before performing the oil and filter change, the drain plug is accessible w/o removing the lower shield. The oil filter is accessed by removing two (2) 10 mm hex bolts, and then opening an access door.
  • The quantity of oil captured by the drain pan was 5 qts.
  • A lip exists below the filter to divert the oil that drips out once the filter is loosened. Unfortunately, it doesn't extend far enough, and the oil will drip onto the lower shield, at a point where the access door is hinged. I ended up shoving some paper towels between the lip and the lower shield to prevent the oil from leaking all over the inside of the lower shield.
  • The drain bolt is a 14 mm hex head. I was able to spin the old copper crush washer off the bolt, as you should always use a new crush washer.
  • The oil pan is a composite material, not aluminum, and the oil pan uses an metal insert for the oil drain bolt. On the VR30DDTT, the installation torque is 22-29 ft-lbs. Don't over-tighten the bolt, as you may risk spinning the insert out of the composite.
  • The OEM filter P/N has been superceded. I took a picture of the old filter (left) and the new filter (right):

  • After buttoning-up everything underneath, I refilled the engine initially with 5 qts of Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20. I took a drive to thoroughly warm the oil, and upon returning, waited 15 minutes to allow the oil level to settle.
  • When I checked the dipstick, it was at the 3/4 mark between the holes. I added another 12 oz to get the oil level to the upper hole. Total oil added: 5 3/8 qts.
  • Checking the owner's manual, an oil & filter change on the Red Sport AWD is 5 3/4 qts, with the disclaimer, "always use the dipstick to determine the proper amount of oil in the engine". Uh, yeah... So now I can see how some dealer's may be over-servicing the engine.
I also took a sample of the oil, and will be sending it into Blackstone Labs for analysis.


Driving around this afternoon, I noticed the engine mechanical noise is less with the Pennzoil... bonus

Last edited by IridiumRS400; 01-31-2017 at 08:19 PM.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:16 AM
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Good points and thanks for the run through.

Removing and changing the crush washer is definitely something people doing this themselves should get into the habit of doing. Re-using it won't make it piss out oil or anything, but you'll get drips and it becomes annoying because the bottom gets all oily and looks ugly as heck. (learned this from experience being lazy lol)
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:31 AM
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Im curious to see what the Blackstone test says. Any reason you went with Pennzoil Platinum? Just curios.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donguason View Post
Im curious to see what the Blackstone test says. Any reason you went with Pennzoil Platinum? Just curios.
I have used PP in the past with 5K drain intervals on turbocharged engines, had the analysis performed, and the results have been very good. PP has very good shear and viscosity properties, even with extended drain intervals.
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:48 AM
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Shell Rotella® T for all your motor oil needs. lol
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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I'm Jewish. Which oil should I use?

How about my muslim neighbor?


Sorry, I just smirk when oil discussions start to turn into religious battles.

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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 09:11 PM
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Any idea why the oil capacity is so low for this motor? Especially a turbo. Even most 2.0T motors require at least 7 quarts, including the Infiniti. On a side note, 20 weight seems low for a turbo as well. Always required 30w or 40w in my previous turbo cars. Interesting choices by Infiniti..
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jepva View Post
Any idea why the oil capacity is so low for this motor? Especially a turbo. Even most 2.0T motors require at least 7 quarts, including the Infiniti. On a side note, 20 weight seems low for a turbo as well. Always required 30w or 40w in my previous turbo cars. Interesting choices by Infiniti..
The capacity for the RWD is 5 and 1/8 quarts with filter change. The manual states that you can also use SAE 5W-30 for temps above -13 F which is what my dealership put in mine on first service.

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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The results of the oil analysis from Blackstone Labs:

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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 07:38 AM
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From the sounds of the report, everyone should change the oil right when they hit 1,000 miles,if aluminum copper and iron are already on the high side.
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