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It's $1600.
 

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In the article AMS published of the Q the got to push a little over 800 HP, it is mentioned they have this fuel pump installed.



While their products are considerably expensive, note what you're getting: pedigree and a company who has access to the proprietary engineering specs directly from Infiniti rather than having to reverse engineer everything. They do have a bit of a jump on the competition for a reason.



For any serious performance and tuner out there, this will likely become a must have mod.
 

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I really don't NEED this product.....but I'm looking at that graph and saying, "****, 200 extra HP is awesome." But $1600 for the pump and then however much for their injectors is a ton of money. And where am I going to use 800hp? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is no longer on their site. Also, I don’t think you need anything additional according to their blog
 

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It is no longer on their site. Also, I don’t think you need anything additional according to their blog
Fuel upgrades follow a boost upgrade. Bigger turbos are needed to upgrade boost. The chart just shows how much fuel can be pushed for a targeted horsepower. So yeah, a lot more is needed.
 

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Hopefully on the track when you smoke a GTR who was absolutely not expecting it because he is FBO and tuned :laugh: The look on their face would be priceless so don't forget to set aside a few hundred to also buy a good dashcam setup (front/rear/sides)

:D
See...I know if I do that then I'm going to be committed. Then I'll need to get the AMS crankshaft, the LSD, new turbos when they come out, and essentially every power upgrade that is released, inevitably dumping more money into aftermarket parts than what I've paid for the car. The economically frugal part of me is being smart, but the immature car guy in me is saying GO FOR IT YOU IDIOT!!
 

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^ Right on the money, Also don't forget they Q engine is not stock when compared to our stock form, therefore they have built engine but no one else knows the exact spec of the block.
 

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See...I know if I do that then I'm going to be committed. Then I'll need to get the AMS crankshaft, the LSD, new turbos when they come out, and essentially every power upgrade that is released, inevitably dumping more money into aftermarket parts than what I've paid for the car. The economically frugal part of me is being smart, but the immature car guy in me is saying GO FOR IT YOU IDIOT!!
I still don't see any problems :laugh:
 

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Will this pump be beneficial on a daily driven vehicle running 92 octane gas? Then every once in awhile run 30% E85 and bump up the boost on a JB4 to say 6psi? Seems like others can run 6psi on the stock fuel pump.
 

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i got one

I am picking up my 2017 Q60 3.0t premium tomorrow from the shop. It will have
AMS CAI’s ( dumped the Stillens), AMS Alpha heat exchanger, AMS hi pressure fuel pump, OEM red sport oil cooler, FI full DP’s with hi-flow cats, Borla CB exhaust(previously installed), Tanabe strut bar, sport/big brake kit(prev installed) and AMS red alpha tune. Tires are Conti extreme contact 19” P255. The JB4/JB1 are
going in the drawer. Needless to say, I am curious how this will run.
 

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too bad they didn't up the power on the stock block before building it. i was curious to see how far the stock block could go.
 

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This is what i was told by AMS



I did want you to know that when installing the HPFP, you will need a low pressure fuel pump installed alongside of it, such as a walbro 485 low side pump.




Not once did I read this or see anyone mention it, can anyone that has the pump confirm this and what was needed to install it?
 

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There's a fb group you might want to join: Q50/Q60 VR30 Tech Talk. I suggest anyone that is interested in modding to join it. Going to paste from a write-up from Shaun:

Shaun Tee 8/15/2018 - Q50 / Q60 VR Tech Talk FB Page
Low Flow Intank Fuel Pump DIY
What : Replacing the low flow fuel pump in the gas tank with a higher rated aftermarket unit
Why : The stock fuel pump is not able to maintain adequate pressure under higher boost, especially on
tuned cars running e30+. Note: in order to run e85, you'll still need a HPFP.
How :
* Disclaimer : Please note that you are playing with gas and your fuel system. Any mistakes can and may
cause irreparable harm to your car, or yourself! Do this at your own risk!
- Tools needed : Safety wire, dremel tool, small drill bit, pliers, small tip flathead screwdriver, phillips
screwdriver, 10mm socket ratchet
- Instructions :
a. Purchase a higher flowing in tank fuel pump:
i. For reference, the stock one is a tiny one measuring at 90x39mm. It is smaller than a
stock oem GTR one, and that one only flows at 135lph! Our stock fuel system runs at
12V and 60psi for reference for flow ratings. The stock HPFP is rate at 224lph.
ii. The AEM 50-1200 is a fully E100 compatible fuel pump and flows at 300lph @ 60psi and
14.6A on our Qs. This unit can fit inside the fuel basket without extensive modifications.
iii. The Walbro F90000274 fuel pump is rated 323lph @ 60psi and 15.23A. It is a popular
choice used by many shops for e85, but will necessitate more modifications to the fuel
basket in order to fit due to its large base.
- Prep the car for intank pump removal : The fuel tank level needs to be below 1/8 on the gauge before
opening the tank. Park somewhere with good ventilation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to
avoid the car pressurizing the system. Have a lot of rags available to clean up fuel.
- Remove the stock intank fuel pump : take out the rear bottom seat cushions (just 2 latches at the bottom
and yank out). Remove passenger side fuel cover (remember which bolts go where). Disconnect the main
fuel line and the adjacent wiring harness (fuel may spew out, so use a rag). and save the o ring, and dont
let gasoline touch it). Remove the pump, being very careful not to damage it; you’ll also need to
disconnect the fuel return line as well. Remember to pour out the fuel that is in the fuel pump basket
(there will be a lot).
- Modifying the fuel basket for the new fuel pump : There will be two tall spring loaded rods, with one
having a plastic retainer. Remove the retainer and you will be able to remove both rods. Disconnect all
the wiring harness to the top (you may want to mark what goes where). YOu will also need to disconnect
the sensor at the side with the yellow cable. Once this is done, you’ll be able to seperate the fuel basket.
It is secured together by 3 main plastic tabs. Next you’ll have to remove the fuel pump bottom section with
the strainer. It is also held on by a few plastic tabs. Once this is off, you can slowly pull out the OEM fuel
pump. Please save the white plastic cylinder and O-ring that comes off with it as well, as you will need it
for the new fuel pump.
Shaun Tee 8/15/2018 - Q50 / Q60 VR Tech Talk FB Page
- Installing and securing the new fuel pump : You’ll first need to modify the top half of the fuel basket to
open it up for the new fuel pump wiring harness (just use a dremel). Next, I placed the the fuel pump in
ensuring it was fully secure in place (installing the white plastic cylinder and O-ring as well). Then, you
will need to find a way to secure the fuel pump into the basket to ensure it doesn’t come loose. I used
safety wire as my method to secure the new fuel pump basket to the top and bottom half. I did this by
drilling a very small hole into the three sides of the top half of the fuel pump. I used the safety wire to
route from these holes to the tabs of the bottom half locking them in place. Once done, just assemble
everything back into place reversing the order. If you haven’t already, you’ll need to rewire the actual fuel
pump to the older harness and secure it to the basket.
Note: these instructions are for the AEM. Other fuel pumps may require more extensive modifications.
Videos :
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLFjkMZLoMfNua3UVLIzLB7iFcP_0XSfKH
 
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