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Owner's Manual P.5-125

Caution!

During the first 1,200 miles follow these recommendations to obtain maximum engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in shortened engine life and reduced engine performance.

-Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.
-Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
-Avoid quick starts.
-Avoid hard braking as much as possible.

<End>

Engine warm up

Also, as part of normal starting it's recommended the engine run for at least 30 seconds before driving and to drive at a moderate speed for a short distance first, especially in cold weather.
 

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Owner's Manual P.5-125

Caution!

During the first 1,200 miles follow these recommendations to obtain maximum engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in shortened engine life and reduced engine performance.

-Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.
-Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
-Avoid quick starts.
-Avoid hard braking as much as possible.

<End>

Engine warm up

Also, as part of normal starting it's recommended the engine run for at least 30 seconds before driving and to drive at a moderate speed for a short distance first, especially in cold weather.
Show me a new car manual that does not have that paragraph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Yea all that says to me is "do not drag race constantly or attempt fastest lap times at your track for the first 1200 miles". I didn't thrash my RS right out the gate.....much..... but those are just standard manufacturer rhetorical feces. I mean when you take one for a test drive the rep in the passenger seat will tell you to floor it anyways, if it hurt the car's performance any we'd all sue the sales reps!!!!!
 

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I'm curious how mandatory this is.

I mean honestly, who test drives a new car and doesn't punch it a few times. Let alone keep it under 4,000 rpms...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea all that says to me is "do not drag race constantly or attempt fastest lap times at your track for the first 1200 miles". I didn't thrash my RS right out the gate.....much..... but those are just standard manufacturer rhetorical feces. I mean when you take one for a test drive the rep in the passenger seat will tell you to floor it anyways, if it hurt the car's performance any we'd all sue the sales reps!!!!!
That's why they're reps and not techs :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm curious how mandatory this is.

I mean honestly, who test drives a new car and doesn't punch it a few times. Let alone keep it under 4,000 rpms...
Almost all engines have a break-in period. I have a CBR1000RR and CB1000R. Both required oil and filter change after the first 600 miles.
 

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Sure, we all accept there's a break in period where one should drive slightly conservative. ****, I changed my baby's oil at 500 and 1000 miles before I felt satisfied that no small metal shavings were floating around (had a bit in the filter at 500, pretty much none at 1000). But saying to keep it under 4k rpm and avoid long drives at either slow or fast speeds is a bit dramatic if not painfully ambiguous.

That 1200 miles break-in is really just to help ensure the car's mechanical health and give the company more avenues to turn down a warranty claim if need be.
 

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Sure, we all accept there's a break in period where one should drive slightly conservative. ****, I changed my baby's oil at 500 and 1000 miles before I felt satisfied that no small metal shavings were floating around (had a bit in the filter at 500, pretty much none at 1000). But saying to keep it under 4k rpm and avoid long drives at either slow or fast speeds is a bit dramatic if not painfully ambiguous.

That 1200 miles break-in is really just to help ensure the car's mechanical health and give the company more avenues to turn down a warranty claim if need be.
what people have to suggest on breaking in an engine can vary quite a bit to a point it seems like there's no clear cut method of going about this. what I understand from the overall information out there is to drive it like the average person would and intermittently and smoothly get into the higher RPM range to help build compression. Just don't drive it like a race car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That 1200 miles break-in is really just to help ensure the car's mechanical health and give the company more avenues to turn down a warranty claim if need be.
Does the car record rpm and mileage? If it doesn't, what proof would a dealer have that you exceeded 4K rpm?
 

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What are you supposed to do, drive it in eco only for the first 1,200 miles? I mean, you can't even merge onto a busy freeway and stay under 4,000rpm.
Let your car idle for 20-30 secs before you put it into gear on a cold start. You should pretty much do that all the time anyway.
Drive a bit more passively than normal for the first couple of minutes after a cold start. Let the fluids move and heat up a bit. Again, you should always be doing this.
Don't constantly redline and rip on the car for the first 1,000 miles. I stress constantly. Who's going to get a 400hp coupe and not get on it a little bit for the first 4-5 weeks they have it? That's assuming your doing 40miles a day, 5 days a week. I work and live on the same property, and do about 7,000miles a year. I'm supposed to go for 2 months without going over 4,000rpm? Please. I barely made it 2mins, before I punched it leaving the dealership.
 
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What are you supposed to do, drive it in eco only for the first 1,200 miles? I mean, you can't even merge onto a busy freeway and stay under 4,000rpm.
Let your car idle for 20-30 secs before you put it into gear on a cold start. You should pretty much do that all the time anyway.
Drive a bit more passively than normal for the first couple of minutes after a cold start. Let the fluids move and heat up a bit. Again, you should always be doing this.
Don't constantly redline and rip on the car for the first 1,000 miles. I stress constantly. Who's going to get a 400hp coupe and not get on it a little bit for the first 4-5 weeks they have it? That's assuming your doing 40miles a day, 5 days a week. I work and live on the same property, and do about 7,000miles a year. I'm supposed to go for 2 months without going over 4,000rpm? Please. I barely made it 2mins, before I punched it leaving the dealership.
I'm with you on this one. I didn't beat up on the car I test drove because it wasn't mine to drive aggressively but I plan on doing exactly what you've written i.e. let it sit so the initial rpms settle and them drive conservatively until the engine, transmission, and tires are warmed up. Heck, my daily commute is 8 miles...adding in other intangibles, it would be 5 mths before I could fully enjoy the car...big no no for me.

It's worked for my GTR...no reason it shouldn't work for the Q60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
What are you supposed to do, drive it in eco only for the first 1,200 miles? I mean, you can't even merge onto a busy freeway and stay under 4,000rpm.
Let your car idle for 20-30 secs before you put it into gear on a cold start. You should pretty much do that all the time anyway.
Drive a bit more passively than normal for the first couple of minutes after a cold start. Let the fluids move and heat up a bit. Again, you should always be doing this.
Don't constantly redline and rip on the car for the first 1,000 miles. I stress constantly. Who's going to get a 400hp coupe and not get on it a little bit for the first 4-5 weeks they have it? That's assuming your doing 40miles a day, 5 days a week. I work and live on the same property, and do about 7,000miles a year. I'm supposed to go for 2 months without going over 4,000rpm? Please. I barely made it 2mins, before I punched it leaving the dealership.
Well I'm driving mine in Eco mode. My commute is all highway and I don't have to hit 4,000 rpm to merge onto the highway. Check how fast you can roll at 4,000 rpm in 7th gear. :D

I plan on doing some road trips on the weekend just to break it in, especially since I commute on my CB1000R when it's not raining.
 
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Wait, my sales rep told me I could go full throtle out the door brand new 0 miles.

Wait my sales rep told me I could cruise control to canada 1000 mile trip.

Wait the G37s that I raced back from Canada told me to play chicken with him.

Wait...are you telling me the sales rep is wrong, who sold me a 50000 thousand dollar car?

No way...
 

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:laugh: I ripp on mine from the get go. Sports + and take it to redline through all the gears... Whats the fun in having a lease? The car will be fine. My last Q60 same deal and it got better and more responsive around 30K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:laugh: I ripp on mine from the get go. Sports + and take it to redline through all the gears... Whats the fun in having a lease? The car will be fine. My last Q60 same deal and it got better and more responsive around 30K.
If I didn't own mine I wouldn't care about break-in either. >:)
 
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:laugh: I ripp on mine from the get go. Sports + and take it to redline through all the gears... Whats the fun in having a lease? The car will be fine. My last Q60 same deal and it got better and more responsive around 30K.
I might be in the minority here but I beat up on my stuff (i.e. stuff I'm buying) more than I would on a lease. I've had very few leases from when I worked at NNA, but I always viewed them as someone else's property and couldn't bring myself to beat on them.

But like I said, no reservations when it's my property. :D
 

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i think breakin is a good idea overall, but doesn't have to be 100% strict. otherwise test drives on performance cars wouldn't even be allowed

mine came with 4 miles so i'm pretty sure it wasn't even test driven. it came from another dealer and got shipped to my local dealer so i test drove another car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i think breakin is a good idea overall, but doesn't have to be 100% strict. otherwise test drives on performance cars wouldn't even be allowed

mine came with 4 miles so i'm pretty sure it wasn't even test driven. it came from another dealer and got shipped to my local dealer so i test drove another car.
That's why some dealers have a "demo car" that's set aside for test drives.
 
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