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Discussion Starter #1
19 R.S awd 13,000km

Hello everyone, been having some issues with my car and the dealer has yet to acknowledge something is wrong. I'm hoping someone on here maybe an experience tech or owner can advise me.

Problem happens only between certain rpm but it can also happen during the entire rpm range. let me explain

When driving normally around 1800 rpm, I normally get enough torque and only have to press on the accelerator very little to get moving...if I do get on the throttle maybe 50 % the car takes off..and I can hit hi way speed without a problem.

Scenario 1 the issue I'm having is that sometimes this isn't the case. From the start the car feels as though if its in limp mode very little torque can be felt when I do step on the gas. The transmission downshifts but the rpm remains at 2000rpm and slowly creeps up to 3500 rpm and then it takes off ...however it still feels as thought the power is reduced. this happens at any speed 0-100km. same 50% throttle applied.

Scenario 2 when the above happens and I take it on the hi way and floor the throttle 100%, the transmission downshifts but very little speed is gained ...it seems as though it wants to go but its limited. the engine revs up but little power is felt.100-160km

I've done 0-60 when the car runs fine and when this issues occurs and there's a 2-3 seconds more to 60 when the issue occurs.

The issue can be felt more when I switch modes to sport or sport plus.

ive done these test with traction control on and off different sport modes none seems to help with the problem. traction control doesn't come on and most times its a straight road. temps are pretty cold now in December.

Things to consider.

If I let the car sit overnight the issues goes away and the car runs fine. I thought maybe its heat soak so I used the blue driver reader and monitored live data from the car to see if this was actually the case, which isn't, coolant temperature were 90 degrees celcius and intake were in their 20's.

The issue happen 90% when the fuel tank is around 1/4 tank. the low fuel lights is not on when the issue happens.
As of recently the issue started happening even when the tank is 100 full.

the weird thing that I noticed was if I reverse the car on my driveway (rear of car incline) the issues happens more often regardless of tank level when compared to parking nose first (rear of car declined)

ive read that another q60 had their fuel pump replaced due to it failing prematurely. ive also read that the hp fuel pumps kicks in early in the rpm 1500-3000 rpm which would cause all of the issues I'm having. hoping to get a solution to this. thanks

ps no engine light or codes
 

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Take it to the dealer and have them check the fuel pump and the entire fuel delivery system. It sounds like you might have a blockage causing the engine to starve for fuel. Contaminated fuel could be where the blockage came from.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok guys update.....been to the dealer on two occasions but its the same response from them..."unable to duplicate"....dont know if they are actually checking the car or just scanning and joy riding...they wanted me to leave the car for a full day and the SA would of driven it to see if he can duplicate the issue but I had issues with that...so didn't bother....

that being said, I believe that I may be on to something...I have the blue driver reader and today I did a 20 minute live data record... driving heavily and cruising at times...I noticed that the intake air temperature on bank one ..sensor 1 is 3 degrees off from sensor 2...and as the duration of the drive increases...there were a difference of 20 degrees at max at the end of the run(sensor one shows 2 degrees where's sensor 2 shows 22 degrees)...so I have a few questions

where Is the intake air temperature sensor on our cars? is it just downstream of the engine air filter ?
does the IAT sensor incoperates the mass airflow sensor as well?( both reading also shows a vast difference in airflow as well)
if one sensor is deemed to be faulty would it cause the drivability issues im having?

in the new year the car would be going to a specialist shop to see if they can determine the problem..in the mean time any input would be appreciated..
 

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* Try a different Dealer

* Have them ride with you and show your captured data

* Escalate up to Infiniti Corporate
 

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19 R.S awd 13,000km

Hello everyone, been having some issues with my car and the dealer has yet to acknowledge something is wrong. I'm hoping someone on here maybe an experience tech or owner can advise me.

Problem happens only between certain rpm but it can also happen during the entire rpm range. let me explain

When driving normally around 1800 rpm, I normally get enough torque and only have to press on the accelerator very little to get moving...if I do get on the throttle maybe 50 % the car takes off..and I can hit hi way speed without a problem.

Scenario 1 the issue I'm having is that sometimes this isn't the case. From the start the car feels as though if its in limp mode very little torque can be felt when I do step on the gas. The transmission downshifts but the rpm remains at 2000rpm and slowly creeps up to 3500 rpm and then it takes off ...however it still feels as thought the power is reduced. this happens at any speed 0-100km. same 50% throttle applied.

Scenario 2 when the above happens and I take it on the hi way and floor the throttle 100%, the transmission downshifts but very little speed is gained ...it seems as though it wants to go but its limited. the engine revs up but little power is felt.100-160km

I've done 0-60 when the car runs fine and when this issues occurs and there's a 2-3 seconds more to 60 when the issue occurs.

The issue can be felt more when I switch modes to sport or sport plus.

ive done these test with traction control on and off different sport modes none seems to help with the problem. traction control doesn't come on and most times its a straight road. temps are pretty cold now in December.

Things to consider.
Ok guys update.....been to the dealer on two occasions but its the same response from them..."unable to duplicate"....dont know if they are actually checking the car or just scanning and joy riding...they wanted me to leave the car for a full day and the SA would of driven it to see if he can duplicate the issue but I had issues with that...so didn't bother....

that being said, I believe that I may be on to something...I have the blue driver reader and today I did a 20 minute live data record... driving heavily and cruising at times...I noticed that the intake air temperature on bank one ..sensor 1 is 3 degrees off from sensor 2...and as the duration of the drive increases...there were a difference of 20 degrees at max at the end of the run(sensor one shows 2 degrees where's sensor 2 shows 22 degrees)...so I have a few questions

where Is the intake air temperature sensor on our cars? is it just downstream of the engine air filter ?
does the IAT sensor incoperates the mass airflow sensor as well?( both reading also shows a vast difference in airflow as well)
if one sensor is deemed to be faulty would it cause the drivability issues im having?

in the new year the car would be going to a specialist shop to see if they can determine the problem..in the mean time any input would be appreciated..
If I let the car sit overnight the issues goes away and the car runs fine. I thought maybe its heat soak so I used the blue driver reader and monitored live data from the car to see if this was actually the case, which isn't, coolant temperature were 90 degrees celcius and intake were in their 20's.

The issue happen 90% when the fuel tank is around 1/4 tank. the low fuel lights is not on when the issue happens.
As of recently the issue started happening even when the tank is 100 full.

the weird thing that I noticed was if I reverse the car on my driveway (rear of car incline) the issues happens more often regardless of tank level when compared to parking nose first (rear of car declined)

ive read that another q60 had their fuel pump replaced due to it failing prematurely. ive also read that the hp fuel pumps kicks in early in the rpm 1500-3000 rpm which would cause all of the issues I'm having. hoping to get a solution to this. thanks

ps no engine light or codes
I have a new 2021 RS 400 and I'm experiencing the exact same issues! I don't really notice it under 60 mph, but it is VERY noticeable after I've been driving 15 to 20 minutes or more then take it on the highway and start punching it between 60 mph and 80 mph... no power, no torque, with the exact same issues/circumstances you're describing. I've taken it to two different dealers and they are unable to duplicate the problem. FYI, with my car, there is no correlation with how full the gas tank is. I'm guessing there isnt a connection to how to pull out of your driveway or how you park your car either... but I'm no expert. My car has 1200 miles on the odometer with no warning lights/codes. Wondering if you're on to something with the intake air temp sensor. Please let me know what you find. I'm exhausted and don't know where else to turn.
 

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I have a new 2021 RS 400 and I'm experiencing the exact same issues! I don't really notice it under 60 mph, but it is VERY noticeable after I've been driving 15 to 20 minutes or more then take it on the highway and start punching it between 60 mph and 80 mph... no power, no torque, with the exact same issues/circumstances you're describing. I've taken it to two different dealers and they are unable to duplicate the problem. FYI, with my car, there is no correlation with how full the gas tank is. I'm guessing there isnt a connection to how to pull out of your driveway or how you park your car either... but I'm no expert. My car has 1200 miles on the odometer with no warning lights/codes. Wondering if you're on to something with the intake air temp sensor. Please let me know what you find. I'm exhausted and don't know where else to turn.
One clarification...
I live in Sport+ drive mode using the automatic transmission (ie not manual, I'm not using the paddle shifters, etc), and I've been doing some online reading... One knock on the red sport 400 is that there are times when the car doesn't pick the appropriate gear to be in (ie it is in too high of a gear which can result in a slow reaction time to put down power). That said, I'm starting to wonder if the issue we are having is due to the car being in too high of a gear when we happen to punch it. When we give it 50% throttle or more, and the car is in too high of a gear, it may downshift, but for the kind of acceleration we want, the car should have down shifted another gear. Ive seen some people state that they live in Sport + mode and only use the paddle shifters (ie manual transmission), and those people don't ever seem to have the issue we have. Just thinking out loud. Let me know what you think.
 

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We have discussed here in the forum a Q60 tendency that shifting at certain speeds, rpm's and higher gears that you can experience a slower the desired transformation into a lower gear, thus causing a feeling of loss of power. Some believe it's due to the vehicle being in 7th and needing to transform to 5th or even 4th. Some believe it's due to a slow reacting transmission.

I know I drive Sport Plus using the paddles or stick, always. I have found going from high to like 4th there is a delay. I originally thought it was the Turbo's. I had an Audi TTS for a short time and it was really really bad. My Infiniti dealer acknowledge this was normal. You can use the search function here or find similar comments on the web (see attached
23766
).
 

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We have discussed here in the forum a Q60 tendency that shifting at certain speeds, rpm's and higher gears that you can experience a slower the desired transformation into a lower gear, thus causing a feeling of loss of power. Some believe it's due to the vehicle being in 7th and needing to transform to 5th or even 4th. Some believe it's due to a slow reacting transmission.

I know I drive Sport Plus using the paddles or stick, always. I have found going from high to like 4th there is a delay. I originally thought it was the Turbo's. I had an Audi TTS for a short time and it was really really bad. My Infiniti dealer acknowledge this was normal. You can use the search function here or find similar comments on the web (see attached View attachment 23766 ).
Thx Omenx. Greatly appreciate the response and comments. Very helpful. I can understand if we experience this issue at 60 mph or more, but i have noticed it happens at slower speeds too just as Trevis describes, which is a little disappointing. Assuming this is the issue we are experiencing, Im thinking about following your lead and only using Sport + in Manual transmission via the paddles. Also, just as an FYI, for those of us who don't want to go full manual transmission, my owners manual states you can be in Automatic Transmission mode (with Sport + on) and just flick the down paddle shifter once which will down shift and maybe that may solve my issue?... Ultimately Im guessing I could just flick the down paddle twice if needed too, but not sure what Infiniti will say about that. On a side note, its not a good idea to move the shifter to manual as the screen shot describes unless the car is fully stopped, hence my comment to flick the down paddle even though your in automatic transmission mode. Thx again, appreciate the reply.
 

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Thx Omenx. Greatly appreciate the response and comments. Very helpful. I can understand if we experience this issue at 60 mph or more, but i have noticed it happens at slower speeds too just as Trevis describes, which is a little disappointing. Assuming this is the issue we are experiencing, Im thinking about following your lead and only using Sport + in Manual transmission via the paddles. Also, just as an FYI, for those of us who don't want to go full manual transmission, my owners manual states you can be in Automatic Transmission mode (with Sport + on) and just flick the down paddle shifter once which will down shift and maybe that may solve my issue?... Ultimately Im guessing I could just flick the down paddle twice if needed too, but not sure what Infiniti will say about that. On a side note, its not a good idea to move the shifter to manual as the screen shot describes unless the car is fully stopped, hence my comment to flick the down paddle even though your in automatic transmission mode. Thx again, appreciate the reply.
Yes, using the paddle shifters alone puts the transmission in manual mode temporarily. I often flick it twice for rapid downshifts, that's why Infiniti provides rev matching. As a safety feature, I believe if you're in danger of over revving the engine, the transmission will ignore the shift.

The car does not have to be stopped when moving the stick shifter in and out of manual mode. I do it all the time.

I've never had an issue with the transmission finding the correct gear in full auto when I accelerate at any speed.
 
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Hey sorry for the late response ! I wasn’t notified of the replies for some reason....update ...the issues that I’m having doesn’t appear to be transmission related..... in the sense ... when I use the paddles when I’m experiencing the issue..the transsion shifts up and down as it should; but there is lack of power regardless of 1 or 2nd 3 rd etc gear...the engine revs up fine when I do this but it appears that’s all it does ...rev...no boost is felt or very little...

I’ve brought my car to the dealer and showed them the live data and also rode with the SA he too noticed the difference in iat...from the live data run..he has yet to get back to me to bring the car in...this would be my 4th dealer.

one thing I noticed which helped is the 2 occasions of running the tank close to empty...and I mean empty...it’s been a week since I refuel on empty and I havnt experienced the issue..I hope to God it remains that way. Also I did the battery reset for a full day but that didn’t help the issue..

I also ran the live data when the car was performing as it should but it still showed the difference in IAT...

iv came to the conclusion that maybe it’s a tuning issue from the factory and have placed my order from ams for the stage 3...would report if that solved the issue.
 

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Thanks for the update Trevis, please let us know what happens.

FYI, for the first time i noticed the same situation happening to me, i.e. the car was rev'ing correctly (hitting ~4k RPMs), but there was little to no boost. On a side note, i did notice this happened after driving the car pretty hard for 15 or 20 minutes though, not sure if there maybe some safe guards built into the car (note that the engine temp was normal when this happened).

I'm ignorant as to how to fix a potential tuning issue like this, but can't an Infiniti dealer fix a tuning issue? My car is bran new (2021 RS with 1200 miles on the odometer) and i don't want to void any infinity warranties i have. I'm assuming an aftermarket tune will void my 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the update Trevis, please let us know what happens.

FYI, for the first time i noticed the same situation happening to me, i.e. the car was rev'ing correctly (hitting ~4k RPMs), but there was little to no boost. On a side note, i did notice this happened after driving the car pretty hard for 15 or 20 minutes though, not sure if there maybe some safe guards built into the car (note that the engine temp was normal when this happened).

I'm ignorant as to how to fix a potential tuning issue like this, but can't an Infiniti dealer fix a tuning issue? My car is bran new (2021 RS with 1200 miles on the odometer) and i don't want to void any infinity warranties i have. I'm assuming an aftermarket tune will void my 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty. Thoughts?
M

I thought it was heat soak as well after driving the car hard but the coolant temp was fine...using the reader to verify...it’s more than possible to have the dealer re program the ECU....but actually getting them to do it is a different story..I suggested this action and was told that they cannot perform a reprogram with any systems without finding a problem first...which I understand ...I got my car brand new as well and noticed the issue during the summer..I thought it was due to heat soak...because of the oem heat-exchanger..but when the issue persist during the colder months I knew something was wrong...do me a favour..after a hard run open the trunk and see if you can find any metal shavings on the liner of the trunk(where the bumper and trunk meets) when I was having these issues I found Several metal shavings there...now it’s no longer present..maybe it’s a smoking gun
 

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M

I thought it was heat soak as well after driving the car hard but the coolant temp was fine...using the reader to verify...it’s more than possible to have the dealer re program the ECU....but actually getting them to do it is a different story..I suggested this action and was told that they cannot perform a reprogram with any systems without finding a problem first...which I understand ...I got my car brand new as well and noticed the issue during the summer..I thought it was due to heat soak...because of the oem heat-exchanger..but when the issue persist during the colder months I knew something was wrong...do me a favour..after a hard run open the trunk and see if you can find any metal shavings on the liner of the trunk(where the bumper and trunk meets) when I was having these issues I found Several metal shavings there...now it’s no longer present..maybe it’s a smoking gun
Will do. Let you know.

Apologies for my ignorance, but how would metal shavings get into the trunk (where the bumper and trunk meet)? And what would that indicate?
 

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Will do. Let you know.

Apologies for my ignorance, but how would metal shavings get into the trunk (where the bumper and trunk meet)? And what would that indicate?
M

I thought it was heat soak as well after driving the car hard but the coolant temp was fine...using the reader to verify...it’s more than possible to have the dealer re program the ECU....but actually getting them to do it is a different story..I suggested this action and was told that they cannot perform a reprogram with any systems without finding a problem first...which I understand ...I got my car brand new as well and noticed the issue during the summer..I thought it was due to heat soak...because of the oem heat-exchanger..but when the issue persist during the colder months I knew something was wrong...do me a favour..after a hard run open the trunk and see if you can find any metal shavings on the liner of the trunk(where the bumper and trunk meets) when I was having these issues I found Several metal shavings there...now it’s no longer present..maybe it’s a smoking gun
You were right... I drove my car hard yesterday for about 30 min. I decided to check my truck per your comments just now. At first glance, i didn't see anything in the truck, but then i looked closer.. yep, there were tiny metal shavings (not necessarily where the trunk me the bumper, but still in the trunk - scattered).

How would metal shavings get into the trunk?? And what connection does this have to a possible lack of power / tuning issue???

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wow thats interesting...its the same shavings I found as well..im just throwing options out there as to find similarities..since we both have the same symptoms of drivability issues....I believe the shavings are coming from the exhaust and when you open the trunk the wind blows them inside. All of my shavings were found between the bumper and trunk...hence my conclusion. maybe its part of the break in? maybe exhaust ? no idea...

update on my car... today on the on ramp Turing right easy on the throttle the same Issue occurred...I remembered you had the same scenario where the problem happened...where you making a left or right? what was the pedal position? 1/4 1/2...? where you aggressive or slowing adding power?...I checked again for codes and found C1A16-97 which is radar stain(component or system operation obstructed or blocked)...however when I checked the front radar (Infiniti emblem ) it was clean so was all the parking sensors and windshield. I know there is a sensor under the passengers side front bumper that aids with the system..maybe there's an issue with that? would explain why there's no acceleration if the car thinks something is in front of it ???
 

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Trevis, interesting. I’m still guessing tuning issue. Mine occurred while driving straight. My car was off for hours before I opened the trunk.
 
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