[Right.On.Q!]

I've been monitoring my batt voltage every morning for the past three weeks and noticed it would lose about 0.2 V every two days or less. Taking the car out for a drive or charging it back up to normal voltage did not help matters much as the batt just wouldn't hold a full charge for very long. Considering the production date of my '17 Q was 08/2016 I figured the OEM batt was on its last legs and a new batt was going to be needed. After watching a YT video of a batt swap in a Q50 to familiarize myself with the procedure, I purchased an Odyssey Performance AGM-35 batt which is almost exactly the same size as the OEM (Hitachi) batt. I was able to change out my old batt in a relatively short amount of time - removing the various trim pieces to access the batt actually took longer than yanking the old batt out and dropping in the new one. One thing I did to facilitate the swap was tape the harnesses out of the way to make a wider path for the batt to move through (see pic). I also changed out the hold-down bar for a little eye-candy. After I buttoned everything back up, I started the motor and noticed my presets (driver's seat position, radio) were still in effect which was a pleasant surprise. I have to take it out on the road tomorrow to see if my driving habits have to be relearned, but no biggie if needed. All in all, a good experience that should help my Q motor start up reliably for at least the next five years. Thanks for reading - happy driving !

Used tape to hold the wiring out of the way, and used duct tape on the old batt as a handle:

And here's the new:

 

[Bevo]

Sticking this

 

[hanadarko]

The only thing I lost during this swap was the radio EQ settings section. No idea why and that was the only thing that I lost...

 

[Right.On.Q!]

Since this thread has been elevated to a "sticky", here are a couple more pics for the benefit of members who may be thinking about a battery swap in the future.

After removal of the batt compartment lid and frame, the passenger-side "cowling" has to be moved out of the way for access to the batt. There is a water deflector (gold line in pic) that needs to be removed first. Squeeze retainer clip and push toward motor to loosen deflector.

The cowling is retained by two push-in clips. Here is the one at the base of the hood strut.

Here is the other push-in clip under the cowling near the mid-point. The other arrow points to the "split" in the cowling that allows you to pull the passenger-side cowling forward and lay it across the top of the motor for access to the batt. The rubber molding (green arrow) is flexible and does not need to be removed.

After loosening the batt cables I pulled the grommet out of the compartment wall so that I could move the terminal and bundle out of the way. Also removed the fuse/relay box (arrow points to latch) to gain a bit more space. I used tape to keep all the pieces out of the way (see pic in first post above).

Here is what the batt tray looks like. Some forum members were able to install a 24F batt as a more powerful option to the OEM but since the 24F is a bit larger I wonder if it sat in the tray or on it.

And that completes the "album." If you're on the fence about changing the batt yourself, it's actually pretty straight-forward and easily done. Just be mindful the batt is in a slightly awkward location and requires some effort to lift and remove, and ditto for dropping in the new one. Thanks for reading!

 

[Bevo]

Still more difficult than it should be. Thanks for sharing! 🤘

 

[bamthechamp]

Yeap just this install. One thing to tell people is to move the battery terminal out the way when installing. I went with a yellowtop recently.