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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Fellow Q owners,


Im Rob From the Orlando area.

Not new to boards or cars. Been modding/building cars for decades. On the mod team for Honda-Tech.com (670K members and about 30 Mods and Admins) and retired from mod status on other boards.

Since my last car was rear ended by a teenage girl texting.. I picked up a 17 Q60 3.0t AWD for a decent price.
2014 Camry SE

As this car wont be a huge project car, There will be subtle mods on the list


-Swap diverter to a real BOV, Prob an HKS, TurboSmart or Tial
-Keeping the 19" size, Prob staggering 9.5" with a +30 front and either a +22 or +15 rear.
-Prob Work Emotion style (since I havent seen any of that type on any Q60 yet)
-Buddy will tune it for free, just pay license fee (he just Tunes a Red S and made 430WHP with no mods)
- Possibly a Cat Back



Ill be posting around any knowledge or helpful info Ive retained over the years..And asking questions
 

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Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your last car (idiots texting and using their phones behind the wheel is a big pet peeve of mine) but good to have you on board.
 

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welcome, yeah even with a tune the cars a beast, but i would recommend a heat exchanger upgrade since these cars heat soak easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your last car (idiots texting and using their phones behind the wheel is a big pet peeve of mine) but good to have you on board.
Welcome, love that color on these cars!
Welcome aboard.
Congrats and welcome to the forum. Nice color choice!

^^

Thank you everyone!

welcome, yeah even with a tune the cars a beast, but i would recommend a heat exchanger upgrade since these cars heat soak easily.
Hey thx for the info..

Im guessing AMS has kits for the Q or is it a universal with cut to fit piping/couplers, etc?


I will say, This is a DIY mod I did back when my civic was boosted and worked great..


Use one of those cheap windshield sun shades, cut it in strips and wrap the intake or charge piping that might be prone to heat soak.

In the dyno, the IAT's were about 2-3* over ambient. (I also had thermal gaskets being used on intake manifold, TB, and coolant tube to TB removed as i live in florida and dont need it to warm up)




Now, its not the prettiest look, but sure beats that crappy gold tape Mishimoto sells!


Here was my Civic, pretty clean.

 

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I found a guy local for the AMS heat exchanger in the mid 400s... beats brand new for 800. Hes returning the car and i got lucky!

Im in new york so its still cold out here but come May its going to be needed.
 

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^^

Thank you everyone!



Hey thx for the info..

Im guessing AMS has kits for the Q or is it a universal with cut to fit piping/couplers, etc?



the ams heat exchanger is the biggest and is direct bolt on with oem. you can buy the frozen boost heat exchanger which is unversial where you will have to source your own coupler and etc but its a lot cheaper. The frozen boost is smaller then the ams unit but still significantly larger then stock.



you might not see heat soak since its winter time, but come spring or summer..there guys that can see timing pulled just after a few pulls. if you dont care about warranty, the megan LDP is a pretty good bang for your buck as well for around $125-150.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whats the pressure drop with the larger intercooler?


I always called it an intercooler... didnt get the memo thats its called a heat exchanger now
 

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Whats the pressure drop with the larger intercooler?


I always called it an intercooler... didnt get the memo thats its called a heat exchanger now
The air to water intercooler is a separate component on top of the engine. The heat exchanger mounts in front of the engine.


The inlet side of the LH intercooler. It sits neatly under the engine cover; you’d think this was any other intake manifold if you didn’t know.


That water-to-air intercooler peeking out from under the engine cover.
 

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-Swap diverter to a real BOV, Prob an HKS, TurboSmart or Tial

Ill be posting around any knowledge or helpful info Ive retained over the years..And asking questions
Welcome. I have considered the HKS BOV's too. I have read both good and bad things about BOV's on MAF sensor engines. What are your thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, According to my tuner, MAF engines need to recirc...


He said to get the dual port TurboSmart and set it for 50/50.

I would have issue if I vent to atmosphere..


I think its 146.00ea on Amazon
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The air to water intercooler is a separate component on top of the engine. The heat exchanger mounts in front of the engine.


The inlet side of the LH intercooler. It sits neatly under the engine cover; you’d think this was any other intake manifold if you didn’t know.


That water-to-air intercooler peeking out from under the engine cover.
Ahh got it.. thx for the info!

Turbo'd cars sure have changed since I was boosted last...

Then again, i wasnt dealing with a MAF
 

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Well, According to my tuner, MAF engines need to recirc...


He said to get the dual port TurboSmart and set it for 50/50.

I would have issue if I vent to atmosphere..


I think its 146.00ea on Amazon
That is what I thought too. Jon from Z1 Motorsports, at ~ 7:30 min into this video below, states that the VR30DDTT has NO recirc valve. I am not sure if this is true. If it is true, I would probably error on the side of getting a BOV/recirc valve kit.

Can anyone on here confirm the absence of a OEM recirc. valve on the VR30DDTT?

Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=556&v=HHkG4ckMOmI
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If this is the case, does the turbo have and surge housing? unlikely, but i havent seen the OEM turbo or its housing.

How is the pressure released if no diverter?
 

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Welcome to the forum

Welcome. I have considered the HKS BOV's too. I have read both good and bad things about BOV's on MAF sensor engines. What are your thoughts?

Thanks.
WELCOME to the forum.

I too just purchased a (Iridium blue) 2017 3.0t Premium AWD. This is a VERY nice platform with huge upside I'm finding out!

There's a thread on the board in the "Intakes and Exhaust" section where we discussed BOV's, etc.

The VR30ddtt does NOT have a Blow-off valve. One of the first mods I'm gonna do is the HKS BOVs. They can't hurt.
AND...(I'm going out of a limb here) I'm hoping that the BOVs will prevent any surging/"bucking"/hesitation with a 400+ tune/boost increase?

From what I've read, this happens on higher boosted engines (tuned, 400 HP Red Sports) especially if you had the misfortune to pick up a STILLEN Air Intake.
I went out and purchased it before I jumped on any forums...it was CARB EO'd, etc. Since then I've come to find out that there's this hesitation issue on a lot of cars, particularly when raising your foot off the gas after hard acceleration. IF the BOVs don't solve the issue, then I will apply @LoganB's solution to the problem, copying the OEM intake tubing (especially the LEFT Passenger side!) as closely as possible. (That's a great thread as well!).

IF the BOVs solve the issue - then I luck out after all! Having refreshed my knowledge on this platform I think the consensus is the AMS "Red Alpha" Air Intake, if you are looking for one - is the way to go.

I also am definitely going to do as most members have recommended and pick up the AMS/INFINITI (branded) "heat exchanger". I really don't know WHAT to call this thing - because when I went to my local Infiniti dealer, the service manager insisted on correcting me and said it's a RADIATOR???!! (smh)
The car supposedly suffers severely from heat soak - and the difference in surface area and cooling capacity is huge...over the tiny OEM whatever-this-thing-is-called.

I think you're going to enjoy this forum. I've already gotten a ton of great advice and I've only had my Q for a month (It was my Christmas present to myself ;)

Keith G.
Carson, CA
 
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