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New owner of '17 premium awd (37K mi)! Love the car, completely blown away by every aspect of this car. I was not expecting it feel so upscale and to handle nearly as well as it does. The torque down low is a blast but, of course, I want more!
(Gotta share a pic of the stable!)
23093
23094

I've read every thread I could find on safely turning up the boost on the car and other aspects of preventative maintenance. Reliability is really important to me so I want to get ahead of any issues. A lot of the info is from >1 year ago with several of the big questions seemingly unanswered with "its a new platform, time will tell".

Idk if this is a no news is good new situation or if people are bailing on this platform!

1. Are our turbo's prone to failure? -At stock boost or otherwise.
2. Are BOV's: Safe? Recommended to protect the turbo? Pointless?
I've read all kinds of things ranging from they're unsafe bc they throw off the MAF (run rich) to their pointless bc the wastegate compensates. Is the verdict out yet?
3. What's the consensus on overall reliability? I guess I'm mainly concerned with the turbo's or any other 4-5 figure repair bills.
4. Would you recommend a new-to-me owner get an extended warranty? I've never gotten one in the past but the number of issues I've read about has me considering it. Do you regret not getting one? How well do you know your Infiniti SA?
5. Whats the verdict on carbon build up and catch cans?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of how this platform responds to light modding. My initial performance goals would be to increase the boost to RS400 numbers and add all the heat management upgrades, intake, exhaust +/- BOVs.

Any insight into the above questions would be greatly appreciated!
 

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My turbos wer replaces at 29k miles under warranty... q60rs...heat exchanger iS recommended I went wit ams to void any discretions in warranty..works fine...I have full catback doin down pipes BOV and tube next week at aamcompetion...I’ll let u kno how it go
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My turbos wer replaces at 29k miles under warranty... q60rs...heat exchanger iS recommended I went wit ams to void any discretions in warranty..works fine...I have full catback doin down pipes BOV and tube next week at aamcompetion...I’ll let u kno how it go
**** thats concerning lol but thanks for heads up. Does Infiniti cover the turbos for 6yr/70000? or what? What psi were you running?
 

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1. Are our turbo's prone to failure? -At stock boost or otherwise.
Infiniti got rid of the EGT sensor after MY2018. Unaware if they changed anything else of the Garrett turbos. I'd recommend 5k OCIs, use the oversized OEM filter, and incorporate the Rev B dipstick, which was incorporated in mid-year 2019s and all 2020 Qs w/VR30DDTT (it is backward compatible to the 2017-2019 (mid-year)). The oversized filter gets you another 1/4 qt and the dipstick nets another 1/2 qt, for an additional 3/4 qt., regardless if you have a RWD or AWD Q. It is rumored the turbo oil seal failure has something to do with oil starvation, so adding 3/4 qt capacity to the sump should help turbo oil seal life.
2. Are BOV's: Safe? Recommended to protect the turbo? Pointless? I've read all kinds of things ranging from they're unsafe bc they throw off the MAF (run rich) to their pointless bc the wastegate compensates. Is the verdict out yet?
Yes, BOVs on MAF cars will throw off the ECM. If you are tuned with Ecutek, the base programming has a boost spike control to "slow" close the throttle plates after letting off the pedal. I don't have BOVs on my '17 Red Sport, however, I've read the BOVs do help prevent momentary throttle hang during shifts.
3. What's the consensus on overall reliability? I guess I'm mainly concerned with the turbo's or any other 4-5 figure repair bills.
Leased then owned my Q60 since December 2016 - I've only had two warranty items (both driver & passenger window seals left smudges on the window). I had the BT JB4 since Spring 2017 and then was Ecutek tuned in September 2018 by Seb @ SpecialtyZ. I've owned turbo cars for most of my adult life, so I tend to treat them well - wait until engine oil is warm before subjecting to high boost, have a "cool-down" period before shut-off, etc. On my Q, it burns zero oil between changes.
4. Would you recommend a new-to-me owner get an extended warranty? I've never gotten one in the past but the number of issues I've read about has me considering it. Do you regret not getting one? How well do you know your Infiniti SA?.
This depends on how long you plan to keep you Q, and if you plan to mod it to a point that would nullify the powertrain warranty.
5. Whats the verdict on carbon build up and catch cans?
I run a Mishimoto OCC and it does a good job of scavenging oil vapors out of the PCV system. I drain it every 5k miles as part of the oil and filter change. As with any DI engine, the VR30DDTT engine is subject to carbon on the intake valves. It appears on limited data that the rear cylinders get more coked-up than the front cylinders. I run Valvoline Modern Engine 5W30 oil, which is formulated to reduce carbon deposits (FWIW).
I'm trying to get a better understanding of how this platform responds to light modding. My initial performance goals would be to increase the boost to RS400 numbers and add all the heat management upgrades, intake, exhaust +/- BOVs. Any insight into the above questions would be greatly appreciated!
#1 would be installing LDPs & CBE. The secondary cat and stock Y-pipe are HUGE restrictions.
I'm partial to Fast Intentions for their LDPs & CBE. You have to place and order and wait about 6 weeks (every system is made-to-order), but it is worth the wait. Very little to no drone, fantastic build quality, and maximizes the HP & TQ gains. Oh, and it sounds good, too!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
As a new member reading all these forum posts, I've read quite a few of yours even before I bought the car! Appreciate the time you put into the community. Just some quick follow up questions for you:

Infiniti got rid of the EGT sensor after MY2018. Unaware if they changed anything else of the Garrett turbos. I'd recommend 5k OCIs, use the oversized OEM filter, and incorporate the Rev B dipstick, which was incorporated in mid-year 2019s and all 2020 Qs w/VR30DDTT (it is backward compatible to the 2017-2019 (mid-year)). The oversized filter gets you another 1/4 qt and the dipstick nets another 1/2 qt, for an additional 3/4 qt., regardless if you have a RWD or AWD Q. It is rumored the turbo oil seal failure has something to do with oil starvation, so adding 3/4 qt capacity to the sump should help turbo oil seal life.
This is great info wow. Definitely want to do this. Is this "mod" kosher with Infiniti as far as warranty claims?

It seems these turbo failures strike randomly whether the boost has been increased or not. Do you hear alot of horror stories for rejected claims for turbo replacement? A lot of the posts ive read seem to suggest Inifiniti is aware and doesn't push back to much since its so common.

Yes, BOVs on MAF cars will throw off the ECM. If you are tuned with Ecutek, the base programming has a boost spike control to "slow" close the throttle plates after letting off the pedal. I don't have BOVs on my '17 Red Sport, however, I've read the BOVs do help prevent momentary throttle hang during shifts.
I absolutely want to preserve my factory powertrain warranty (6yr/70k mi right?). Which is why I was thinking I'd go with the JB4. Bummer, I'm 30 but more like 20 when it comes to cars and was looking forward to that sound lol. I'm sure infiniti would void on the spot if they see BOV's under the hood.

Leased then owned my Q60 since December 2016 - I've only had two warranty items (both driver & passenger window seals left smudges on the window). I had the BT JB4 since Spring 2017 and then was Ecutek tuned in September 2018 by Seb @ SpecialtyZ. I've owned turbo cars for most of my adult life, so I tend to treat them well - wait until engine oil is warm before subjecting to high boost, have a "cool-down" period before shut-off, etc. On my Q, it burns zero oil between changes.
This depends on how long you plan to keep you Q, and if you plan to mod it to a point that would nullify the powertrain warranty.
I run a Mishimoto OCC and it does a good job of scavenging oil vapors out of the PCV system. I drain it every 5k miles as part of the oil and filter change. As with any DI engine, the VR30DDTT engine is subject to carbon on the intake valves. It appears on limited data that the rear cylinders get more coked-up than the front cylinders. I run Valvoline Modern Engine 5W30 oil, which is formulated to reduce carbon deposits (FWIW).

#1 would be installing LDPs & CBE. The secondary cat and stock Y-pipe are HUGE restrictions.
I'm partial to Fast Intentions for their LDPs & CBE. You have to place and order and wait about 6 weeks (every system is made-to-order), but it is worth the wait. Very little to no drone, fantastic build quality, and maximizes the HP & TQ gains. Oh, and it sounds good, too!
Agree with you on ldp and cbe first. But I heard mixed reviews with some saying they got minimal gains on the butt dyno. So now debating intake/exhaust mods first or jb4 first. What would you do?
 

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As a new member reading all these forum posts, I've read quite a few of yours, so thanks for being awesome. Just some quick follow up question to you.
No problem. It's a great car. Let me know if you have any further questions.
 

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As a new member reading all these forum posts, I've read quite a few of yours even before I bought the car! Appreciate the time you put into the community. Just some quick follow up questions for you:

This is great info wow. Definitely want to do this. Is this "mod" kosher with Infiniti as far as warranty claims?
The bigger filter and shorter dipstick are OEM parts. The shorter dipstick is covered by a service bulletin (just do a forum search). The bigger OEM filter is listed by a reputable tuner shop - Z1 Motorsports:

OE Nissan Oversized Oil Filter, Performance OEM and Aftermarket Engineered Parts Global Leader In 300ZX 350Z 370Z G35 G37 Q50 Q60 - Z1 Motorsports

It seems these turbo failures strike randomly whether the boost has been increased or not. Do you hear alot of horror stories for rejected claims for turbo replacement? A lot of the posts ive read seem to suggest Inifiniti is aware and doesn't push back to much since its so common.
It is a known issue in the dealer network. I have not heard too many rejected claims. As long as the turbo seals are the only symptom (i.e., you're not running E85, for example), I think its not too hard to get upgraded replacements. Heck, one Q owner checked his turbo inlet, found oil residue, took a pic, sent it to their Infiniti SA, and the dealership ordered turbos w/o physically seeing the car!
I absolutely want to preserve my factory powertrain warranty (6yr/70k mi right?)
Yes.
Which is why I was thinking I'd go with the JB4.
Many Q50 & Q60 owners go JB4 1st, with some going with an Ecutek tune later on. Others stay with the JB4 - Burger Tuning has iterated the JB4 for the VR30. When it first launched, it didn't have Fuel wires, Electronic Wastegate Control, or Water/Menthanol control/support.
Agree with you on ldp and cbe first. But I heard mixed reviews with some saying they got minimal gains on the butt dyno. So now debating intake/exhaust mods first or jb4 first. What would you do?
I'd order the exhaust, and then during the waiting period, order the JB4. In order to achieve 18-19 lbs of boost (from 8 on the non-Red Sports), you'll need the exhaust to remove the backpressure on the turbos. Otherwise, with the stock exhaust and JB4 (set with +6 to +7 psi boost), you'll top out around 14 -15 lbs of boost, or so, which is right around a stock Red Sport. Oh, and then when you make that extra boost, you'll heat soak the stock HE after the 1st run, so you'll also need an upgraded HE, too.

Oh, and don't bother with any of the aftermarket intakes - just use a good quality panel filter (i.e., the aFe dry filter), as the radiator shroud ducting does a fairly good job of getting "cold" air to the filter boxes. If you want proof, YT has a VR30 filter comparison that shows dyno results are not much different from stock.

Mods are fun!
 

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New owner of '17 premium awd (37K mi)! Love the car, completely blown away by every aspect of this car. I was not expecting it feel so upscale and to handle nearly as well as it does. The torque down low is a blast but, of course, I want more!
(Gotta share a pic of the stable!)
View attachment 23093 View attachment 23094
I've read every thread I could find on safely turning up the boost on the car and other aspects of preventative maintenance. Reliability is really important to me so I want to get ahead of any issues. A lot of the info is from >1 year ago with several of the big questions seemingly unanswered with "its a new platform, time will tell".

Idk if this is a no news is good new situation or if people are bailing on this platform!

1. Are our turbo's prone to failure? -At stock boost or otherwise.
2. Are BOV's: Safe? Recommended to protect the turbo? Pointless?
I've read all kinds of things ranging from they're unsafe bc they throw off the MAF (run rich) to their pointless bc the wastegate compensates. Is the verdict out yet?
3. What's the consensus on overall reliability? I guess I'm mainly concerned with the turbo's or any other 4-5 figure repair bills.
4. Would you recommend a new-to-me owner get an extended warranty? I've never gotten one in the past but the number of issues I've read about has me considering it. Do you regret not getting one? How well do you know your Infiniti SA?
5. Whats the verdict on carbon build up and catch cans?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of how this platform responds to light modding. My initial performance goals would be to increase the boost to RS400 numbers and add all the heat management upgrades, intake, exhaust +/- BOVs.

Any insight into the above questions would be greatly appreciated!
Welcome aboard. I too have a 17 premium. I'm at 47k now without any issues to speak of (not to say others with our year haven't experienced issues because they have). Like many I've just maintained the general upkeep of the car, oil changes, tires e.t.c. I've done some light mods- JB4, exhaust, lower downpipes, oil catch can, intakes, blow off valve, fuel wires and ewg. I'll eventually do the heat exchanger too but I've never been to a track so I don't experience a ton of heat soak. I came from a WRX and it's certainly a bunch of steps up. Infiniti community is good, lots of knowledgeable people willing to help.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Welcome aboard. I too have a 17 premium. I'm at 47k now without any issues to speak of (not to say others with our year haven't experienced issues because they have). Like many I've just maintained the general upkeep of the car, oil changes, tires e.t.c. I've done some light mods- JB4, exhaust, lower downpipes, oil catch can, intakes, blow off valve, fuel wires and ewg. I'll eventually do the heat exchanger too but I've never been to a track so I don't experience a ton of heat soak. I came from a WRX and it's certainly a bunch of steps up. Infiniti community is good, lots of knowledgeable people willing to help.

Enjoy!
Thanks for the input. I've put about 2500mi on the Q since my OP. Since then, I've had intermittent belt squeal and chirping on throttle. It 100% didn't do this on the test drive but after a few hundred miles of it creeped up. It was persistent and reproducible for about a week. And then I took the car on a 1000 mile road trip and when I got back, it's completely gone away- strange. I'm gonna take it to Infiniti if/when (probably when) the squeal comes back.

As a result, I decided to wait a bit before doing the go-fast mods and kinda feel out the car to determine how reliable the engine is stock. So I purchased lowering spring, wheels and tires (the runflats are heinous). I'm thinking I'll do Hotchkis sways bars next. I'm content with the stock power for now but it's only a matter of time before I get the itch.
 

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Thanks for the input. I've put about 2500mi on the Q since my OP. Since then, I've had intermittent belt squeal and chirping on throttle. It 100% didn't do this on the test drive but after a few hundred miles of it creeped up. It was persistent and reproducible for about a week. And then I took the car on a 1000 mile road trip and when I got back, it's completely gone away- strange. I'm gonna take it to Infiniti if/when (probably when) the squeal comes back.
Since you have a 2017, the 2016 Q50s and the early VIN 2017 Q50s and Q60s w/VR30DDTT engine have a TSB for belt alignment. The A/C Compressor may be misaligned, and this misalignment will cause belt squeal and eventual belt failure, which could leave you on the side of the road as well as take out coolant hoses, transmission line(s), etc.

Do yourself a favor and have the belt checked-out by the dealer. If it's not the belt, the turbos can also emit a squeal under boost. Have the dealer also check for external leaking turbo seal(s).
 

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I can agree...I created another post but I guess it’s a similar problem..my car still have 1yr and 20k still left under warranty..one day my car just wouldn’t start after an oil change and had to have it towed back into the dealership..I didn’t pay for anything because insurance covered the roadside and dealer covered warranty.. I’m posting the invoice because I’m not a mechanic and maybe someone else can understand it and elaborate on wat was done to my car...all I kno is that is work.. it’s goin back again because of a CEL that comes on and off..I’m really ready to trade it because I feels it’s been the shop under warranty more than I can enjoy it...but I love this car so much...wen everything is ok it’s my baby but wen I have to take it in I feel my wife cheated on me (jk jk)...I’m gonna create a different post and describe everything so I Dnt jack this one
23256
 

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Looks like your serp belt broke. Was pretty normal for 2017 and prior from what I understand. Seems you need to check the position of it every so often to make sure it's not slipping off
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since you have a 2017, the 2016 Q50s and the early VIN 2017 Q50s and Q60s w/VR30DDTT engine have a TSB for belt alignment. The A/C Compressor may be misaligned, and this misalignment will cause belt squeal and eventual belt failure, which could leave you on the side of the road as well as take out coolant hoses, transmission line(s), etc.

Do yourself a favor and have the belt checked-out by the dealer. If it's not the belt, the turbos can also emit a squeal under boost. Have the dealer also check for external leaking turbo seal(s).
So I did stop by a dealer to ask some general questions about the warranty, service history and talk about the belt issue. He said it was common but it needs to be reproducible for them to work on it, and right now its not making any noise at all. My VIN is NOT affected by the TSB. I inspect the belt every couple days. The indicator on the tensioner is within range and there is >3.5mm space on the pulley (i.e belt's not slipping off/forward). Although, when the motor is running, I see a slight side-to-side motion on one of the pulleys as the belt spins. Once I get the car back from the spring/wheel/tire installation I'll call the dealer and see if they'll take a look.

I didn't realize when I bought the car that the nearest dealer is 50 miles away! Makes taking care of these issues more of a headache but I'll get it sorted out.
 

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Once I get the car back from the spring/wheel/tire installation I'll call the dealer and see if they'll take a look.
The other issue that could cause belt chirp/squeal is a water pump leaking coolant onto the belt, which could cause an intermittent noise. Look for signs of crusting white coolant residue around the pump. How is your coolant level (in the bottle)?

Here's what the pump looks like:

23262
 

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There are also wear indicator marks on top of the belt tensioner that you can check.

23265
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The other issue that could cause belt chirp/squeal is a water pump leaking coolant onto the belt, which could cause an intermittent noise. Look for signs of crusting white coolant residue around the pump. How is your coolant level (in the bottle)?

Here's what the pump looks like:

View attachment 23262
With a cold engine, coolant level appears a little less than half way between min and max. I think I still have some Nissan Blue from my Z that I could top off with, if its the same. Ill check for signs of coolant leak, thanks for the tip
 

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With a cold engine, coolant level appears a little less than half way between min and max. I think I still have some Nissan Blue from my Z that I could top off with, if its the same. Ill check for signs of coolant leak, thanks for the tip
You've got to check the coolant reservoir with a HOT engine. The intercooler reservoir is checked COLD.
 

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There are also wear indicator marks on top of the belt tensioner that you can check.

View attachment 23265
I was surprised how much belt stretch occurred in 25k miles on my Q. I recently replaced the OEM serpentine belt with the Gates belt.

Here's what the indicator looks like after the installation:
23266
 
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