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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know these cars use an extremely thin weight oil at 0w20. I had my oil changed about 250 miles ago and checked the fill level when I got home later that day. The ride home from the dealership which happens to be near where I work was about 30 miles or so of mainly stop and go traffic with some Highway, not to mention an extremely hot day.

I checked the dipstick and as usual the thin weight oil was very hard to see. I first noticed it seemed over filled as the fill line was above the second hole and just below the H. Although only slightly overfilled, what I found interesting was how brown or dark the oil had become after driving it just 30 miles or so. I could be wrong but the last time I checked the dipstick after a change (late March, cooler weather) I thought I remembered the oil being more amber in color. So I'm wondering if it could be a few things, a) the thin weight Mobil synthetic oil just gets dark quicker in hotter weather, b) they changed the oil and not the filter leaving the used oil in the filter, hence not only the darker color but the overfill as well, c) they've switched from draining it from the oil pan to extracting it via vacuum through the fill tube which many dealerships are doing these days. This does not extract as much oil as draining it via gravity. When vacuuming or siphoning the oil out it is very difficult to almost impossible to get the oil out of all the baffles and channels from the bottom of the oil pan. I'll definitely be checking with the dealership to see which method is used.

Anyway, I don't like it being overfilled even just a little bit so I have a handy dandy hand pump oil siphoner and siphoned out about 12 oz which put the level just below the upper hole. I have attached pictures to show you the color of the oil extracted after 250 miles. I would imagine the oil was the same color at 30 miles because the color on the dipstick really didn't change nor did the color on the rag after I wiped the dipstick clean at 250 mi versus 30 mi. So am I being paranoid or is this simply the way it is with oil in these motors (or as the dealership would say..."its normal")? Of course just asking for peace of mind ?
 

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As you've probably noticed, the VR30DDTT motor runs pretty hot even under "normal" driving conditions, and the constant excessive heat tends to darken motor oil over a shorter period of time relative to motors of yesteryear. Also, according to one of the oil mfrs, direct-injected motors produce more "soot" than other fuel delivery systems, and that will also turn the motor oil darker. That being the case, I would give your service dep't the benefit of the doubt and assume they drained all the old oil out along with the filter. But maybe for the next oil change you might consider doing it yourself, just for "peace of mind."
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So am I being paranoid or is this simply the way it is with oil in these motors (or as the dealership would say..."its normal")? Of course just asking for peace of mind ?
If you want piece of mind, order a Sample Kit (free) from Blackstone Labs, and when you receive the kit, extract enough oil to fill the sample bottle to at least 3/4 of its capacity, and then send it out with $28. You should have results in about 10 working days.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

I send Blackstone Labs a sample from each oil and filter change. It provides a good indication of oil health, based on your individual drive cycles, along with change interval, filtration, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
As you've probably noticed, the VR30DDTT motor runs pretty hot even under "normal" driving conditions, and the constant excessive heat tends to darken motor oil over a shorter period of time relative to motors of yesteryear. Also, according to one of the oil mfrs, direct-injected motors produce more "soot" than other fuel delivery systems, and that will also turn the motor oil darker. That being the case, I would give your service dep't the benefit of the doubt and assume they drained all the old oil out along with the filter. But maybe for the next oil change you might consider doing it yourself, just for "peace of mind."
~
Almost forgot about the direct injection (my first car with DI). I don't doubt the dealership changed the oil, and even if they forgot the filter I don't think it would make much difference since they're 10K intervals and I get them done every 5K. I thought about changing myself for that extra piece of mind but never seems to be enough time in a day or a week to accomplish that. Plus it's pretty convenient having the dealership right next to where I work.


If you want piece of mind, order a Sample Kit (free) from Blackstone Labs, and when you receive the kit, extract enough oil to fill the sample bottle to at least 3/4 of its capacity, and then send it out with $28. You should have results in about 10 working days.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

I send Blackstone Labs a sample from each oil and filter change. It provides a good indication of oil health, based on your individual drive cycles, along with change interval, filtration, etc.
That's actually not a bad idea now that I have some oil set aside with only a couple hundred miles on it and can get it tested. I almost forgot about the direct injection and the soot it causes as Right.on.Q stated, so seeing the oil turn dark makes me pretty confident the oil is doing its job. I may wait until my next Oil Change which will probably be around fall time when the weather is cooler just to see if that changes anything before sending in a sample of that oil I have saved. That's of course assuming there's no degradation to the oil that would skew the test from Blackstone after it sits for a few months in a climate-controlled environment.
 

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Also, according to one of the oil mfrs, direct-injected motors produce more "soot" than other fuel delivery systems, and that will also turn the motor oil darker.
DI can also cause a higher % of fuel dilution in the oil, which depends on drive cycles, mods (i.e., higher boost levels). In my case, the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) showed 2% fuel dilution in a 5W30 oil after 4500 miles.

Why be concerned about fuel in oil, you may ask? For one thing, it changes the viscosity of the oil. When it was tested, my 5W30 oil was effectively performing as a 5W20 oil with the entrained fuel. If I had been running the 0W20 oil, would the loss of viscosity been similar? I shutter to think about it.

In addition, the "soot" caused by DI can result in carbon deposits on the backside of the intake valves. With that in mind, I'm currently using Valvoline 5W30 Modern Engine Oil, available in a 5 qt. jug at your local Wally World, and using Top-Tier gas (Chevron).
 

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DI can also cause a higher % of fuel dilution in the oil, which depends on drive cycles, mods (i.e., higher boost levels). In my case, the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) showed 2% fuel dilution in a 5W30 oil after 4500 miles.
Good point! I had already switched over to Mobil-1 5w-30 simply because we hardly experience below freezing temps here in NorCal Bay Area, and it's good to know the higher viscosity rating will help to somewhat offset the "fuel dilution" effect on the oil.
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All turbo cars generate more heat than none turbo, but when compare a turbo piston engine to a turbo Rotary engine the Rotary generate even more heat. I have been using Amsoil Signature series Oil and makes a difference with the color, I had compare it on my 93 Rx7, using both Synthetic oil (Castrol) and Amsoil, with the Castrol within 50 miles the color is almost black. I due an oil on the Q in 8k miles that will be my next oil change the first one was free from the dealer so I could not refuse. Also I don't drive easy with these cars, I beat the crap out of them whenever I get chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In addition, the "soot" caused by DI can result in carbon deposits on the backside of the intake valves. With that in mind, I'm currently using Valvoline 5W30 Modern Engine Oil, available in a 5 qt. jug at your local Wally World, and using Top-Tier gas (Chevron).
I've had good experience/results with Valvoline Synpower synthetic oil in the past especially in Chevrolet's LS engines. I've had good results with Mobil 1 as well.
It'll be fall (Nov.) and the temps will be cooler by the time I get my next oil change (5k mi. intervals) and will probably stick with the bulk Mobil Synthetic the dealership carries for winter time. But I'm certainly going to look into the Valvoline MEO 5w30 for summer oil next year.
 

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Interested I never knew that Valvoline make that particular oil! Good to know there is other options, btw how much you spend for the 5qt or 1 gallon?
 

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Interested I never knew that Valvoline make that particular oil! Good to know there is other options, btw how much you spend for the 5qt or 1 gallon?
$34, normally $39 @ Walmart (special markdown), and not every store had it, so you may have to try a few. I found it at the closest Super Center.

Oh, and since I needed 5 3/4 qts. for the oil change on my Red Sport AWD, I bought two jugs and will use the leftover at the next oil change, and then the next, etc. One qt is like $10...:eek:

Note: The Advanced Formula jug has a similar look to the Modern Engine jug, except the ME jug has a bronze ring around the cap.

I've attached what the oil looks like after 2800 miles.
 

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I looked over Amazon's website which checks your vehicle for compatibility and it doesn't acknowledge this being compatible. I just wanted to make sure others are using the oversized version above (15208 9E01A -- OE Nissan Oversized Oil Filter) successfully? Thx
 
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I looked over Amazon's website which checks your vehicle for compatibility and it doesn't acknowledge this being compatible. I just wanted to make sure others are using the oversized version above (15208 9E01A -- OE Nissan Oversized Oil Filter) successfully? Thx
Yeah, Amazon sometimes doesn't get their compatibility 100% right with some fitting options.

Per the Z1 Motorsports link I provided, the oversized oil filter can be used in the following applications:


  • 2003-2008 Nissan 350Z (VQ35DE/HR)
  • 2003-2008 Infiniti FX35 (VQ35DE)
  • 2003-2008 Infiniti G35 (VQ35DE/HR)
  • 2004-2015 Nissan Titan (VK56DE)
  • 2008-2013 Infiniti G37 (VQ35HR/VQ37VHR)
  • 2009+ Nissan 370Z (VQ37VHR)
  • 2011+ Nissan Juke (MR16DDT)
  • 2014+ Infiniti Q50 (VQ35HR/VQ37VHR/VR30DDTT)
  • 2017+ Infiniti Q60 Coupe (VR30DDTT)
Fits both Low and High output VR30 powertrains. (2WD and AWD/4WD)
 
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