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holly molly!!! if it took 4 hours for the rear.. I guess it will take about 6 hours for the total job.. I guess the total price for everything is about 2k (alignment, springs and installation)
R/T quoted me $800 for install including alignment and they carry the springs which they offer for $299. Local shop pricing may vary but I'd say in general if one were planning to outsource the installation, the total cost shouldn't be much over 1k.

@marcogag Any chance you could post a few pics of the final result and share some feedback on how you feel the ride quality is?
 

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Update:

A few weeks in after wheel drop and happy to report the ride is good.
A little stiffer, you feel the road more a good thing with no issues with rubbing at all.
You do have to be a little more careful with speed bumps and areas where the pavement may dip as I've scrapped the front mud flaps a few times ( see photo)

Up next, wheel spacers.
Anyone know of a 15 mm wheel spacer that will fit without extensive modification?
I'm looking for bolt-on style ( don't want to remove the original bolts )
Note ** the H&R Track+ will not fit even though it says so in the application guide on their website at least with the OEM wheel.
As pointed out in the photo the supplied bolts will not fit flush with the back of the wheel.
The 5 cavities on the back of the wheel are not large enough to accommodate the bolt head.
I could open up the cavity but not sure if I want to modify my oem wheels..... any thoughts on this?
 

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Nice bro, but I must ask.. is that a conservative drop, because it's not low at all to me. You rubbing the mud flaps is the front a 1 inch drop and the rear .5 inch drop?
 

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sweet. I'm sure the springs will settle after a month or so.. could you measure now and then in a month measure again to see how much it settled? the reason I'm asking because I'm going to get springs and I want to know the actual drop, because my rims are wide and I need to pull and roll my fenders.. I'm trying to figure out how much I need to roll & pull my fenders..
 

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Sweet man! Yeah this looks nice and level and not overly aggressive for the car. Thanks a ton for posting a follow-up. I've got nothing regarding the spacers outside of giving Z1 a ring. I believe they fabricate their own hub-centric ones and I would think they would have certainly provisioned for the lack of space in those wells for spacer bolt-heads. Hey just to confirm, are these the OEM 19" or 20" wheels? I tried to read the lettering on the tire by I can't make it out.
 

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Update:

A few weeks in after wheel drop and happy to report the ride is good.
A little stiffer, you feel the road more a good thing with no issues with rubbing at all.
You do have to be a little more careful with speed bumps and areas where the pavement may dip as I've scrapped the front mud flaps a few times ( see photo)

Up next, wheel spacers.
Anyone know of a 15 mm wheel spacer that will fit without extensive modification?
I'm looking for bolt-on style ( don't want to remove the original bolts )
Note ** the H&R Track+ will not fit even though it says so in the application guide on their website at least with the OEM wheel.
As pointed out in the photo the supplied bolts will not fit flush with the back of the wheel.
The 5 cavities on the back of the wheel are not large enough to accommodate the bolt head.
I could open up the cavity but not sure if I want to modify my oem wheels..... any thoughts on this?
Marcogag, in response to your "Open up the cavity" question. I saw a "how to" a little while back on this very issue. I don't remember the reference and can't find it in a search, but the individual addressed and fixed the issue by using a router. He set the depth very shallow, say the 16th or 8th, whatever is needed for the clearance. He used a wood router bit. Can't remember is he had a jig or just free handed the existing cavity's perimeter. The router bit trimmed out the alloy and he reported it worked fine for the clearance needed. I don't feel it would cause any harm, but you are modifying your OEM rim. Not to many other options unless you go with something aftermarket.


FYI - I read this whole thread/read along about your "RS-R down" journey. I want the lowered look on my AWD RS400, but it is a commitment for sure. Your car looks really nice. Glad you made it through without any noted issues and thanks for sharing your experience for all to learn from.
 

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rsr's are known to drop over a few months...so you probably won't see them finally settled until a few months from now.
 

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Ended up pulling the trigger on these springs, thanks a ton for all your insight. I was very close to going with full RSR coilovers but then I found out about the crazy deal HRE is having on their flow-form lineup (40% off the FF15 specifically, I mean heck... A proper 20" HRE setup for like $1600.xx shipped is bonkers IMO). That sale ends the 2nd and I couldn't afford both SSR coilovers plus the wheels so yeah, going with these based on your results. Good stuff man and thanks again!!!
 

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Thank you sooo much for this thread. I am attacking this now and it is a bit crazy how hard they made it to get to rear struts
23492
23493
23494
 

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Done! Will take better pics tomorrow. Install was not too bad. The interior was the most difficult only because I took my time not trying to break any of the clips.
5269A34D-FED8-40B6-B747-B03814E8DE08.jpeg
9F744854-5614-4E27-94BA-263581A5A6C7.jpeg


And this laminate puller bar from homedepot I had from installing laminate in last house was perfect to separate rear strut from spindle.
23497
 

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Hi all! Is there a step by step write up on how to disassemble the rear to get to the struts? I have tried searching, but couldn't find one.
 

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Hi all! Is there a step by step write up on how to disassemble the rear to get to the struts? I have tried searching, but couldn't find one.
I'm also in the process of installing my coilovers. I started removing the plastic caps in the back. I can't figure out how to remove the styrofoam rear deck.

Hopefully I can figure it out tomorrow. Will definitely post back.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 
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I'm also in the process of installing my coilovers. I started removing the plastic caps in the back. I can't figure out how to remove the styrofoam rear deck.

Hopefully I can figure it out tomorrow. Will definitely post back.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
Cool. Looking forward to your post!
 

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Cool. Looking forward to your post!
Removing the rear styrofoam piece was the most time consuming part. You definitely have to remove ALL obstructions, INCLUDING the air bag inflator cartridges. I remember being “scared” to mess with those but they need to be loosened...a lot! In order to have enough “wiggle room” to get the rear deck out.

I remember having the feeling that the rear deck styrofoam piece was going to break taking it out and I just got fed up and said to heck with it and just yanked it out from one side.

It came out... and DIDN’T break. Putting it back it was the reverse except I used a rubber mallet and small wooden block to “knock” it back in place.

I was fully prepared to just break it and deal with it later, either replacing it or repairing it.

I don’t know if this helps and unfortunately I didn’t take step by step pictures disassembling my rear to get access to the struts, but all I can say is you gotta “go for it!”

That styrofoam piece MUST bend in order to come out, as well as go back in. You’re not going to get it out by moving slow and trying to “ease” it out.

Hope this helps?!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Removing the rear styrofoam piece was the most time consuming part. You definitely have to remove ALL obstructions, INCLUDING the air bag inflator cartridges. I remember being “scared” to mess with those but they need to be loosened...a lot! In order to have enough “wiggle room” to get the rear deck out.

I remember having the feeling that the rear deck styrofoam piece was going to break taking it out and I just got fed up and said to heck with it and just yanked it out from one side.

It came out... and DIDN’T break. Putting it back it was the reverse except I used a rubber mallet and small wooden block to “knock” it back in place.

I was fully prepared to just break it and deal with it later, either replacing it or repairing it.

I don’t know if this helps and unfortunately I didn’t take step by step pictures disassembling my rear to get access to the struts, but all I can say is you gotta “go for it!”

That styrofoam piece MUST bend in order to come out, as well as go back in. You’re not going to get it out by moving slow and trying to “ease” it out.

Hope this helps?!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes it does help! Thank you!
 
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