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Anyone running RS-R iSport Coilovers on their Premium 3.0? I only see Sport/Red Sport applications. If not what you guys using? I want the best I can get.
 

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I ran the RSR coilovers on my AWD RS for about like 10k and they did the job, but I wanted my DDS back so I went back to riding with the stock dampers and various springs. I still need to sell them LOL they've been sitting in our basement for awhile now.
 

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@LoganB what spring did you end up settling? I also want to keep my DDS but I can't afford the RSR Sport Active Coilover.

Q60 FTW
 

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I also want to keep my DDS but I can't afford the RSR Sport Active Coilover.
Why not remain stock until you can afford the RS-R coilovers with DDS support? In my opinion, being cheap on modifications is the worst thing you can do--getting the correct parts the first time will save money in the long run.
 

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Has anyone seen any feedback / reviews on the RS-R best coilovers with DDS support?

I haven't been able to find any videos or info other than short product videos.
 

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Has anyone seen any feedback / reviews on the RS-R best coilovers with DDS support?
I had the C/Os installed back in May 2020 along with SPL suspension, and I am very happy with the setup. I've settled on a manual dampening setting of "8" clicks from Full Soft on the front and rear positions, and I dropped the ride height 1" with these C/Os. I'm running -1.5 camber at all wheel positions. The RS-Rs in Standard Mode (drive mode) are comfortably firm for cruising the highway

Although I have the Stillen Adj Rear STB, I'm waiting for a good sale and availability of the Hotchkis FRT & RR STBs to complete the suspension mods.

Although I haven't participated in any HPDEs this season, this is the plan for Spring/Summer 2021. I will say this - I was impressed the other day when I got racy with a MB C63 AMG, and I was leading him through a 90-degree right turn, two-lane on-ramp (about 40-45 mph), and as I applied power to exit the apex, I was carrying some extra speed for the A/S 3+'s, and I power-slid all four wheels on dry pavement as I accelerated away (as opposed to getting tail-happy). I credit the RS-Rs and the SPL hardware (i.e., traction bars) for keeping the tires planted vs wheel-hopping.
 

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I had the C/Os installed back in May 2020 along with SPL suspension, and I am very happy with the setup. I've settled on a manual dampening setting of "8" clicks from Full Soft on the front and rear positions, and I dropped the ride height 1" with these C/Os. I'm running -1.5 camber at all wheel positions. The RS-Rs in Standard Mode (drive mode) are comfortably firm for cruising the highway

Although I have the Stillen Adj Rear STB, I'm waiting for a good sale and availability of the Hotchkis FRT & RR STBs to complete the suspension mods.

Although I haven't participated in any HPDEs this season, this is the plan for Spring/Summer 2021. I will say this - I was impressed the other day when I got racy with a MB C63 AMG, and I was leading him through a 90-degree right turn, two-lane on-ramp (about 40-45 mph), and as I applied power to exit the apex, I was carrying some extra speed for the A/S 3+'s, and I power-slid all four wheels on dry pavement as I accelerated away (as opposed to getting tail-happy). I credit the RS-Rs and the SPL hardware (i.e., traction bars) for keeping the tires planted vs wheel-hopping.
Is it necessary to have the additional components (camber, sway bars, etc.) when installing coilovers?

I'm starting my build focusing on handling with the RSR best coilovers with DDS support and sound CBE exhaust (TBD - Ark, FI, etc.).
 

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Is it necessary to have the additional components (camber, sway bars, etc.) when installing coilovers?
It's only necessary if you plan to run a different ride height than stock. For example, lowering the ride height 1", without the adjustable front UCAs or the rear Toe Arms, the front and rear wheels, respectively, would have had too much negative camber, and the stock setup can't compensate for camber outside the OEM range. I initially tried -2.5 in the front, but it was too aggressive, and was causing the front air pressures to increase 6-7 psi since the inner treads were getting much warmer during normal driving. I adjusted the front camber myself using an alignment tool and decreased the camber to -1.5.

Also, lowering the ride height will tend to increase "bump steer", so that's why I also went with offset tie rod ends, too.

If SPL Parts are too $$$, Voodoo 13 makes an equivalent stout product. See link for their Adj UCAs:

Voodoo 13 Adjustable Aluminum Front Upper Camber Control Arms - Nissan 370Z / Infiniti G35 G37 Q40 Q50 Q60 FCNS-0400 FCNS-0400RA FCNS-0400HC FCNS-0400HG FUCA - Concept Z Performance
 
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