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Bought a new house and it came with a four post lift. Had a slow leak in the passenger rear that needed fixing so took care of that. I will be installing the FI CBE once it arrives.

The rubber flooring is for the home gym and we cut it to size. Used the extra to cover some of the "shop" floor. The gym equipment wasn't moved in at the time of the pic(day after we closed)
23261
 

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2017 Q60 Red Sport AWD
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Well, no comparison, but using my QJ, this is as high up as I can get my Q in the garage:

23269


My next project is installing the Inland Empire driveshaft.
 
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Four post lift?

In the picture it looks like a two post.

Either way, I'm jealous.
Correct, I meant 4 point 2 post

I love it. I missed having a lift like this when I was working at the dealership. Previous owner of this house had it custom built for the lift. Lift is in the backyard attached 3 car garage with AC(WTF!). We keep our lawn equipment in the front attached 2 car garage.

I'm planning on doing all fluids in my fiancees vehicle this weekend. Mine is almost due for another oil change and tires. Maybe next month I'll tackle that
 

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Installed an Inland Empire Driveshaft the other day. Pretty straight-forward installation. The only issue was the hanger attached to the left muffler of my FI CBE had a cracked weld, so I needed to take it to a local shop for repair.

After I removed both mufflers, I chose to disconnect the CBE from the Full DPs, rather than remove the X-pipe from the intermediate pipe, as it is much easier to remove four (4) bolts at the flanges and sliding out of the rear hangers vs screwing with the Accu-Seal clamps.
23334

The OEM 2-piece D/S appeared to have one U-Joint losing grease (they are supposedly maintenance-free), judging by the grease splattered within the driveline tunnel:
23335

Also, the OEM D/S also has a hard rubber damper, which appeared at first to be dry-rotted, but later I figured out that Infiniti spray-painted the D/S black, including this hard rubber dampener, which I found to be orange near its center.
23336

After I removed the OEM D/S, I installed the IE D/S with the help of a neighbor. At first, the three (3) bolts supplied by IE appeared to be too short, but the rear flange of the IE D/S is an interference-fit with the rear differential mating flange as it is tightened-down,

Rear flange of IE D/S installed:
23337

23340

Front flange of IE D/S installed:
23338

Money shot of IE D/S:
23339

Overall, a worthwhile mod. Eliminates the clap-trap of the OEM D/S, loses about 9 lbs of rotational weight in the process, and much less slop can be felt in the driveline.

The car also feels quicker off the line, and the roll-on in higher gears feels quicker,too.

UPDATE: In fact, something happened yesterday when an idiot in an older BMW 540 thought he could take me from a dig. "Nope!"... but when I went to 2nd gear, with the VDC engaged, I got a "fart" out the exhaust, meaning the VDC detected some wheel spin during the gear change, which never happened to me before the D/S install, as it always happened only in 1st gear. The road surface was dry, with temps in the 80s. So it appears the torque transfer to the wheel(s) is much better.
 

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Installed the EMM Tuning CF Fender Garnishes today:
24460

24462
 

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Summer is here and I can tell by the smell of my air conditioner when running . Time to sodium chlorite mist the system . I don't use the zepp like the dealer might . It makes me gag . I'm too sensative for alot of stuff . lol. Sodium chlorite or hypocholrite works great and last long. I do my daily driver once every few years . I just take a misting bottle and spray into intake while running . Badaboom ....The sodium chlorite is so badass it reversed my wasting and autonomic , locomotor autonomic neurapothies. Dr. Told me I would die in 3 years in o6 and I wouldn't have lasted that . It fixed me on so many levels , reversed Multipul system atrophy and acute toxic phenol poisening . I was super surprised last week when I bit into a jalapeno pepper and felt the heat like a mother that I havn't felt since 02 ....Before I was impervious to pepper heat . Just wasn't there .lol. ok I shut up on off topic .lol.
 

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2017 Q60 Red Sport 400
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Went in for oil / filter change and serpentine belt replacement. Asked them to inspect the water pump out of an abundance of caution with only 26K on the clock. They discovered a slow leak so warranty time.
 
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So I bought my Stoptech BBK used with about 17k miles on them from a Q50 forum member a couple of years ago.

I've had this faint rubbing noise that comes and goes, and when I finally checked into it this spring, I discovered the rear aluminum hats (2-piece rotors) were slightly out-of-round, and were rubbing the parking brake shoes. In the short term, I backed the individual PB adjuster (star wheel) at each brake to stop the rubbing noise, but I lost the PB with the pedal fully-depressed (no surprise).

Removed the old hat and rotor to get at the parking brake shoes:
24677

Removed the old parking shoes and cleaned the dust shield and wheel hub of brake dust:
24678

Another view:
24679

Installed the new parking brake shoes - a locking needle-nose pliers works well to remove & install the PB springs.
24680

Another view of the new PB shoes installed:
24681

All that was left was to re-install the 2-piece rotor w/new hat and re-install the brake caliper:
24682

The new Raybestos PB shoes were ordered through Amazon, and the new hats were ordered from Stoptech through buybrakes.com. BTW, buybrakes.com has excellent technical support.

So now I'm back to having a functional PB without any rubbing noises.
 

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2018, Q60 LUXE twin turbo
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well what I did last night was just clean some of the dirt off my car.. Then looked at it for about 30 minutes hehehehe😁
 

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2017 Q60 Red Sport AWD
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I removed the stock rear diff a few weeks ago, and just re-installed it last Saturday (9/25), as I decided to have my race shop install a Quaife ATB LSD.

Here's my notes:

Started the parts removal (i.e., exhaust, driveshaft, RSTB, etc.) this afternoon to allow for the removal of the OEM rear diff, since I decided to put my QJ's to use and perform the R&R of the rear diff myself, and then drop-off/pick-up the differential w/Quaife LSD installed by my race shop in Tigard. They can turn-around the LSD install in a few days.

I'm currently at the step of removing the diff from it's mount. Looks like two bolts near the front, and one in back. Tomorrow, I'll be using a 800-lb capacity transmission jack from HF to lower the diff while I pop the half-shafts out. Glad I have the 2016 Service Manual for reference - still have to drain the gear oil, remove both wheels sensors, and then the vent tube as the diff is lowered.

UPDATE (1): The rear diff is out! I drained out the gear oil before I started to loosen the diff mounts. Here's what the drain plug magnet looked like after 15k miles (my Q has 30k miles, and the driveline fluids were changed-out @ 15k miles):
Camera accessory Cameras & optics Gas Wood Electric blue


Gas Engineering Household hardware Auto part Electric blue


After the fluid drained out, I bungeed the park brake cables out of the way, and set up the rubber bungees for supporting the half-shafts later. The two axle speed sensors were removed, and I tucked them on top of the rear subframe.

I used the transmission jack with its flat plate to hold the diff case while I removed the rear nut and the two bolts towards the front of the diff case. I enlisted the neighbor's help to make sure the diff didn't move off the jack's flat plate as we lowered it. We disconnected the vent line, and also pushed out the plastic rivet for the tubing retainer, too.

Everything went according to plan until trying to dislodge the half-shafts. My neighbor brought over a better prybar set than I had, and after trying to gingerly pry on the trigger wheel, which I know you're not supposed to do, we simply used a little more muscle and "popped-out" the splines. Despite what the SM says, the spacers just inboard of the trigger wheel can't be used as a prying point, because they never make it past the diff case. After sliding the half-shaft splines out, I moved the diff out from under the car. I wrapped the rubber bungees around each half-shaft to keep them from falling towards the floor, which, if left unsupported, would put unwanted stress on the outer CV joints.

Here's how it looks with the diff out of its usual space (yellow towels are there to keep the boots from getting nicked by sharp edges):
Outerwear Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Rim


As for getting the Quaife LSD installed, it looks like early Monday morning me and the Mrs. will put the diff into a sturdy container, load it into the SQ5, and travel down to the Tigard-area race shop, since I'm not fond of Fedex Ground delivery right now.

UPDATE (2): Dropped-off the rear diff, or "pumpkin" on Monday (9/21), as planned.

Well, I received an email from the shop this evening (9/22) and it's all buttoned-up and ready to be shipped-back tomorrow. They will ship it UPS Ground, which should only take one day to arrive from OR to WA.

UPDATE (3): Received the diff via UPS this morning (9/23). After starting the install, my neighbor and I realized the circlip on the right inboard CV shaft is missing, so I had to order one through the Infiniti dealer ($6.42). I search all over for it, even call the shop and asked if they found it in the OEM carrier, but no dice. Oh well, I'll likely find it on the aggregate driveway some day in the near future. The circlip should arrive at the dealer on Saturday.

I should be able to finish the install on Saturday, but it will still be a couple of weeks before I can try it out, as I decided to remove my brake calipers and send them out for a rebuild and a color change.

UPDATE (4): The circlip arrived at the dealership this afternoon (9/25), so I made the one-hour RT trek to go get it. Once back at the house, I was able to install the circlip by hand with a small amount of wheel bearing grease. We determined the best way to drive the CV joint shaft into the diff (must overcome the circlip tension) was to install the diff with the two mounting bolts in front and the rear nut, and then use a block of wood on the rubber boot where it meets the CV housing. That would give the axle spline a straight shot (not at an angle). A few swings with hammer on the wood and the axle spline was fully-seated.

With that out of the way, I proceeded to torque the diff mounts to spec (74 ft-lbs for the two front bolts, and 77 ft-lbs for the rear nut). I re-installed the IE driveshaft (D/S), which with its lighter weight and one-piece design, can be installed with one person. The only issue that came up - I couldn't torque two of the four bolts at the front flange of the D/S, as they were at the top, because my Q is in Park, and to rotate the D/S, it has to be out of Park. However, moving out of Park means pressing the brake pedal, and I can't do that because I would blow the caps off the brake lines, since my calipers are off getting rebuilt. I debated screwing with the brake pedal switch, but I opted not to.

Oh well, my remaining tasks on the driveline are filling the diff with fluid, torque the front D/S flange bolts, re-installing the FI X-pipe and mufflers, and re-installing the tunnel brace. It can wait until I get my calipers back..

UPDATE (5): My Stoptech Trophy calipers are disassembled, cleaned, and ready for paint. Once the eight (8) halves are painted and oven-baked, the specialty shop, Goldline Brakes, will re-assemble with new seals and dust boots. Note: I requested the calipers to be separated, so the bolts holding the halves together, the interconnect pipes, and the pad stiffener (bridge) could stay their original colors, so the calipers don't look so mono-chromatic.

What they looked like before (front/rear):

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake
 
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I went over to the new Specialty Z location in Simi Valley and had few things installed:
  • AMS intakes and heat exchanger
  • Add W1 oil catch
  • Fast Intention cat-back exhaust
Going to get tuned by Racebox in October - stay tuned!

Wheel Car Tire Vehicle registration plate Land vehicle
 
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Installed an Inland Empire Driveshaft the other day. Pretty straight-forward installation. The only issue was the hanger attached to the left muffler of my FI CBE had a cracked weld, so I needed to take it to a local shop for repair.

After I removed both mufflers, I chose to disconnect the CBE from the Full DPs, rather than remove the X-pipe from the intermediate pipe, as it is much easier to remove four (4) bolts at the flanges and sliding out of the rear hangers vs screwing with the Accu-Seal clamps.

The OEM 2-piece D/S appeared to have one U-Joint losing grease (they are supposedly maintenance-free), judging by the grease splattered within the driveline tunnel:

Also, the OEM D/S also has a hard rubber damper, which appeared at first to be dry-rotted, but later I figured out that Infiniti spray-painted the D/S black, including this hard rubber dampener, which I found to be orange near its center.

After I removed the OEM D/S, I installed the IE D/S with the help of a neighbor. At first, the three (3) bolts supplied by IE appeared to be too short, but the rear flange of the IE D/S is an interference-fit with the rear differential mating flange as it is tightened-down,

Rear flange of IE D/S installed:


Front flange of IE D/S installed:

Money shot of IE D/S:
View attachment 23339
Overall, a worthwhile mod. Eliminates the clap-trap of the OEM D/S, loses about 9 lbs of rotational weight in the process, and much less slop can be felt in the driveline.

The car also feels quicker off the line, and the roll-on in higher gears feels quicker,too.

UPDATE: In fact, something happened yesterday when an idiot in an older BMW 540 thought he could take me from a dig. "Nope!"... but when I went to 2nd gear, with the VDC engaged, I got a "fart" out the exhaust, meaning the VDC detected some wheel spin during the gear change, which never happened to me before the D/S install, as it always happened only in 1st gear. The road surface was dry, with temps in the 80s. So it appears the torque transfer to the wheel(s) is much better.
Man I just installed my IE DS and wow it is awesome work of art :). The quality, fit, and finish are perfect :). Thanks for the recommendation.
 

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Man I just installed my IE DS and wow it is awesome work of art :). The quality, fit, and finish are perfect :). Thanks for the recommendation.
That is great news! Let me know your driving impressions after you get a few miles under your belt.
 
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